Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Caribbean Adventure, Plus Kids.
So you might say I'm crazy... but I actually had a great time. Far from restful, relaxing or romantic, but I am so glad that we went.
Full disclosure: except for one day, with a baby who had not slept and a grumpy, sun burned, bug bitten husband who had tossed and turned for the few hours I was in my own bed. So I had not slept, and was worn out by the thought that I was actually crazy (and a terrible wife and mother) for dragging my family on this trip.
The reality is, we got to see a really cool part of the world, our kids did well- even having fun- and I think Patrick did too. I admit that I pushed our luck, and will certainly make sure that all future accomodations have their own pool (and AC). In the meantime I think that the adventure was well worth it. Besides, everyone should get to experience sleeping under a mosquito net in their lives.
The problem with traveling with small children is that, well, they remain small children. With all of the work and problems that this part of life entails. The joy of traveling with small children is that little moments make a big difference, that you focus on things you would not consider otherwise, the simple pleasures of life and adventure are far more apparent, and you go to bed a lot earlier. I wanted to do this now because I have a remarkably long list of places to see in my lifetime. St Kitts is incredibly safe, with few health or safety risks, and seemed small and interesting enough to strike a compromise. I also have a fear that if I wait for opportune times to insert travel into our lives, we will be retired. I want the girls to grow up with a sense of how the world works in different places, with a nice big comfort zone, and a decent sense of wordliness and an appreciation for the life that they lead. I thought this could be a good chance to start, plus a chance to just do something totally new and different.
So, what did we do? Tried out several beaches (Caribbean, Atlantic, and one in between the two), visited a 300+ year old fort, went for a rainforest walk, visited a botanical garden and batik making store, swam in a resort pool, circumnavigated an entire country, survived me (yes, me) driving for a week on the wrong side of the road, dodged many goats, cows and even chickens, had many meals of very fresh seafood, and spent many hours waiting while children napped.
A few tidbits:
Mariel, when tired, would get homesick and beging asking to go back to St Louis. She actually concocted, entirely on her own, a plan of how Papa would bring his boat (from Lake Ontario, for those who don't know) to pick us up, then go back to St Louis. While our departing plane taxied down the runway (when it was actually time to go, of course, she said she did NOT want to go back to St Louis) she saw the harbor and yelled: I see Papa's boat!
After much explanation from Patrick of how we would take a plane to Miami, and then another plane, she began to ask about "Daddy's Ami." It took me a while to figure out that she thought he was saying "My"- ami.
The island's main form of transportation is vans turned into taxis. In the manner of much of the world, they have crazy names, painted in garish colors. Some favorites: "Scooby Doo," "Shatta" (nope, I don't know), and "Love Sponge."
Mariel wrote several imaginary letters. Many of them began with the phrase "SOP" as in "SOP, Daddy I love you." We think this is supposed to mean "PS," but it remains charming nonetheless.
Patrick and Mariel found me a pirate treasure on the beack. Does anyone need a lovely ring with cutout hearts?
Here are a few picture highlights (I have tons more on a Kodak gallery- just email me and ask if you want a copy!)
This is "Beach Mariel," who took great joy in rolling herself in sand. She was constantly filthy.
Here are Noella and Patrick, on Turtle Beach. Noella had plenty of sunscreen on, Patrick did not. Oops.
This is Mule House, where we stayed. A bit more out of the way than I realized when booking our accomodations (of course, on a tiny island, so not that out of the way!), but far more affordable than anywhere else.
The greatest thing about Mule House (besides its very helpful owners, Ray and Sue) was the incredible gardens. Mariel spent hours outside, picking flowers, looking at plants, and finding lizards.
In keeping with her botanical interests, we also went on a rainforest hike. Our guide was Oliver Spencer, a lovely grandfather who has been doing this since 1970. He was great with Mariel. Patrick had an unfortunate encounter with some fire ants on the hike, which was not so lovely.
The next day, we went out to a great restaurant with the qualification of actually not being in every tourist publication. Sprat Net is owned by Oliver's sons, and the food was delicious. Patrick's snapper may have been the best fish I have ever had. Surprisingly, Mariel's cheese pizza was also incredible (perhaps I have just been in St Louis too long). And, since we were going for indulgence we also ordered dessert- coconut cake and chocolate cake. Delicious. Mariel was so excited when Oliver met us for a drink, and entertained many of the patrons of the place with her creative dancing. It was one of those times when she was just so charming it could kill you.
We also managed to hit the pool a few times to cool off. Noella liked it- she also enjoyed the lounge chairs.
On Sunday, our last full day, we discovered Cockleshell Beach on the far tip of the island. Mariel actually enjoyed going into the water after spending the week concerned about the waves elsewhere. There was good shade, too, so Noella got to hang out on her beach blanket. This is how I pictured my vacation when I planned it. So it lasted for five minutes- to me, absolutely worth it.
And at the close of the trip on Monday night, this is Noella. And how we all felt. As Patrick said, this trip does not qualify as "vacation," but as "travel."

OK- now time to sleep!